Elie Saab Debuts Resort 2024 Collection

Lebanese couturier Elie Saab dubbed his Resort 2024 Ready-to-wear collection “The Swan”, in honor of the original specimen and a 20th-century symbol of elegance and beauty, Marella Agnelli.

“I never knew her, unfortunately, but I know her grandson and lots of people who were around her,” Saab offered over Zoom from his home base in Beirut.

“She was a woman of rare style who left her mark on fashion with chic and lots of class. I’ve always been inspired by her allure and aristocratic poise. From where I stand, that kind of Italian elegance and art de vivre radiates all around the Mediterranean, touching a broad swath of his base", he added.

Saab approached the resort in three chapters, moving from an urban, structured mood to “more amusing” and, lastly, romantic pieces. While the collection could be neatly defined by a silk kaftan in pink-to-mauve ombré with a jeweled brooch closure, other offerings—such as a plunging ecru knit dress with gold-edged pleating—likewise could suit most any type of morphology.

The designer has been leaning in on daywear of late. In the collection, he showed off his tailoring skills with peplum tops and jackets in “Moonshadow” white crepe, a sharp black trench, or a cherry red tweed jacket with matching shorts. A white cotton shirt-kaftan with guipure reprising the brand’s insignia looked crisp and summery.

Nighttime, however, is where the designer’s heart is. Party rompers, beaded strapless midi dresses, and gold lamé halter tops kept company with curve-hugging black jersey dresses outlined with gold chains or quintessential, floaty gala gowns in sage green, aquamarine, or magenta. Even the embroideries the designer favored seemed restrained, cropping up in pale pink flowers and green stems on a bustier gown or a gold flower placement on a midnight blue overcoat. 

Whether for day or night, the simplest looks were the strongest. Among the standouts were a crisp poplin blouse and matching skirt with a lick of lace, a white and gold knit dress in a sunburst pleated style that would look smashing on a wide range of body types, and most of all the structured looks, particularly a black belted duster and a gradient pantsuit.

The designer noted that the resort collection is “for women who travel, but with the same codes in a different way.”