Milan Fashion Week Backstage: Big Brands Updates

Tom Ford 1st collection after being sold out

Earlier in November 2022, the Tom Ford brand had been sold out to The Estée Lauder Companies with a 2.8 billion deal and became the sole owner of the TOM FORD brand and all its intellectual property and they announced that the Autumn/Winter 2023 collection would be Tom Ford's last after 13 years designing womenswear for the fashion house and they announced that Peter Hawkings has been appointed Creative Director.

Tom Ford

To know more About Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford said "In Peter Hawkings, the brand has found the perfect Creative Director, Peter began working with me 25 years ago as a menswear design assistant at Gucci and rapidly worked his way up to become the senior men’s designer at the company when he left to join me at the TOM FORD brand. Since the creation of TOM FORD menswear, Peter has been instrumental in the success of the brand. He is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience, and his appointment gives me confidence that my commitment to creating fashion products with the highest level of design and quality will continue.”

Tom Ford Spring 2024 Collection designed by Peter Hawking

Last week Tom Ford showed its new collection in Milan Fashion Week designed by its new creative director and you can feel Tom Ford's spirit in the whole designs as the collection is re-invented designs from Tom Ford's 90s designs for Gucci.

As Hawkings brings back the famous velvet full suits and Ford's famous silhouettes for Gucci but with some modern twists.

In an interview with Vogue, Hawkings also revealed that one of his inspirations was Donyale Luna, the first Black supermodel who was best known during the '60s and '70s for her mystique and uncanny fluid body movements. In tune with the theme of '70s glamor and sex appeal, the designer captures the essence of Luna in the sultry cuts of the garments (though the black, long-sleeve, see-through dress was directly inspired by a crochet dress Luna wore in a 1967 photoshoot.

Gucci shows its 1st collection designed by the new Creative Director

The previous year, specifically in November, the fashion world announced that Alessandro Michele left Gucci after seven years as creative director and showed his spring summer 2023 collection as his last one, then in January Sabato De Sarno announced the new creative director of Gucci.

To know more about Sabato de Sarno, he is an Italian who started his career with Prada in 2005 then worked for Dolce & Gabbana then from 2009, as director of men’s and women’s collections at Valentino.

Last week de Sarno showed his 1st collection as Gucci's Creative director under the name “Ancora”, which means “again”, some audiences didn't get the idea or de Sarno's vision for Gucci but the first impression you will get is classic Gucci as many designs are reinventing for old designs backs to the reinventing era of Gucci as leather jackets, full suits with masculine blazer details and also old Gucci pattern but de Sarno main target was giving more comfy garments and make gucci fit for all people like before as he showed comfy hoodies and adding denim.

Moschino celebrating its 40th Anniversary with empty Creative Director Seat

Earlier this year, specifically in March, Jeremy Scott announced he was leaving Moschino with these words “After 10 years I am announcing today that I will be leaving Moschino, I've had a blast creating designs that will live on forever. I am grateful for all the love and I've received over this past decade. As I close this chapter I am filled with excitement & anticipation and can't wait to share with you all what I have in store for you next !".

In a press release following the announcement, Massimo Ferretti, chairman of Aeffe S.p.A, which owns Moschino, wrote “I am fortunate to have had the opportunity of working with the creative force that is Jeremy Scott. I would like to thank him for his 10 years of commitment to Franco Moschino’s legacy house and for ushering in a distinct and joyful vision that will forever be a part of Moschino history.”

Last week in Milan Fashion Week, Moschino showed its Spring 2024 collection celebrating its 40th anniversary but without a creative director!!

Moschino made a new step as it hired four stylists ( Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand ) each one will design 10 looks that pay homage to its founder, Franco Moschino, which leads to showing the collection on 4 sections with different inspiration and vibes as mixing between Moschino vintage vibes and 90s designs.