Chanel held Tuesday its annual cruise show at the Carrières de Lumières in the South of France, which was the setting of the 1959 movie "Le Testament d'Orphée" (Testament of Orpheus), directed by Jean Cocteau, who is a friend of Gabrielle Chanel.
The collection was featured in a short film by Inez and Vinoodh shot at 31 rue Cambon.
Creative director Virginie Viard, cited in her show notes, that her love for "Le Testament d'Orphée" and Gabrielle Chanel and Cocteau's close relationship, was the main inspiration behind the luxury brand’s collection.
Viard worked with both modernity and punk looks and presented 66 designs. Studded leather, fishnets, layered chokers and necklaces, and garter belt bags were featured in the pre-filmed show. There were even Chanel logo lip rings, inspired by the late and longtime muse Stella Tennant.
She noted that echoing the extreme modernity of Cocteau's movie, adding that she wanted to present something quite rock with lots of fringes, in leather, beads and sequins, T-shirts bearing the face of the model Lola Nicon like a rock star, worn with tweed suits trimmed with wide braids, and pointed silver Mary-Janes.
https://youtu.be/ybcwFo3vO4s
Viard rolled out a modernist collection rooted in the familiarities of summertime travel. It featured two-tone, made up of bright white and deep black presented in graphic black and white dresses, knitted macramé dresses, capes, and mesh tops layered casually over t-shirts.
She trimmed her garments and bags with frills and fringes that brought a continuous sense of movement to the collection. Viard presented various motifs in prints and “lucky charm” adornments, which easily captured the free-spiritedness of the collection, which included stars, a nod to an “absinthe star” Chanel mentioned in one of her letters to Cocteau.
After the show, each model released a white dove before the French singer Sébastian Tellier performed a low-key medley.
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