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Supervisor Elham AbolFateh
Editor in Chief Mohamed Wadie

10,000 pieces of jewelry in the Hiramandi series inspired by the Mughal civilization


Gold Service

Mon 27 May 2024 | 12:47 PM
Waleed Farouk

The Netflix platform was showing the Indian series “Heramandi” last month, which takes place in the city of Lahore during the 1920s, and monitors India’s struggle for freedom from British rule.

The eight-episode series, from Indian director Sanjay Leela Bhansalidur, is a study in culture, color and historical value, as well as a visual feast of exquisite clothing and jewelery infused with Mughal influences.

Jewelry designers Vinay and Anshu Gupta of Shri Paramani Jewelers in New Delhi were entrusted with the task of reviving the historical jewellery, which amounted to about 10,000 pieces of jewellery. The two designers belong to a family that in ancient times were treasurers of the Mughals themselves.

Mughal jewelery is one of the most artistic symbols of personal adornment that flourished under the Mughal Empire, which ruled much of the Indian subcontinent from the early 16th to the mid-18th century.

The Mughals did not just wear jewelry for decoration, it was an expression of power and status, as these pieces were historically worn by kings and nobles to signify wealth and status.

Mughal emperors often wore a turban to signify their royal status, and these pieces were made of gold and studded with diamonds, emeralds, and rubies.

The “Peacock Throne” piece is one of the pieces that indicate the extravagance of princes and kings. It was the piece that was ordered by Emperor Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal. This throne was decorated with a group of precious stones such as diamonds, rubies, pearls and emeralds, which symbolize the supreme authority of the emperor and his wealth. .

Mughal emperors or nawabs often presented jewelry to foreign ambassadors and dignitaries. Gemstone-encrusted bracelets and necklaces served as gifts, diplomatic tools meant to influence and build alliances.

Mughal era jewelry is considered one of the most important in Indian history, due to the exceptional progress in jewelry making, embodied in techniques such as Kundan, Meenakari, and Jadau.

Kundan involves the use of gold foil to hold the stones and hold them in place without the use of prongs, resulting in a smooth, shiny finish that increases the brilliance of the gemstone.

Meenakari enamel art added vibrant colors to metal surfaces, often depicting floral and animal motifs considered emblematic of Mughal aesthetics.

While the Jadau studded jewelery ensures that the gemstones are embedded in gold foil, a technique that enhances the appearance of the gemstones.

Jewelry during this time also featured intricate motifs such as flowers, birds, and geometric patterns, and the lotus flower, which commonly appears in Mughal designs, symbolized beauty and eternity.

Heritage jewelry is still part of the customs and traditions of Indian women during marriage, as many Indian grooms wear it on the wedding day.

Jewelry, besides decoration, served another function; for example, the jigha, placed on the front of the royal turban, was used to hold the feather.

Another piece of functional jewelry is the armband or bazuband. Believed to provide protection to the wearer in battle, these bands worn on the upper arm were often decorated with gemstones and enamel work.